![]() Once the pressure washer hits the concrete, all of the water sprays off in all directions, but at a much lower force. ![]() Have you ever seen a pressure washer etch concrete when a direct stream hits it? That's your jet of hot powder eroding the baffles. View QuoteI don't think the gas is the problem, but rather the hot jet of burning powder that causes the erosion. I think the suppressor construction is really the biggest factor to consider. I also have complete faith in Mageever and Dead Air saying that the Stellite baffles will hold up to the abuse, and know they will fix it if I do manage to wear something out. Ironically, I run flash hiders on my short barrels and muzzle brakes on my longer barrels, but that's because I know they will be shot unsuppressed on occasion. That doesn't mean that the issue is not still present, though. Now that the industry has moved from Stainless Steel and Inconel to Stellite, I agree with Mageever that the issue is not as pronounced as it once was. I have some saved, and will post them shortly. There have been a lot of other photos posted of blast baffles showing definitive erosion in the exact pattern of the flash hider. Yes, the blast is being redirected to the sides, but not until after the powder and gas has lost a lot of momentum from hitting the baffles. Notice the erosion on the baffles due to the hot powder sandblasting it's way through the brake. This wasn't even used with a suppressor, just as a stand-alone muzzle brake. This is a Dead Air muzzle brake that was ran on a 7.5" 5.56 pistol. The gas directed out and to the sides is not a big deal to a suppressor blast chamber-provided it was designed with enough wall thickness for the application. Usually a bullet comes out the barrel sideways (ammo issue) and damages the baffle and that's when we see them come in. We've never seen that, but I expect someone someday will do it. We're happy to rebuild it if you think you've eroded it too much. If you have a Sandman and you've ran several thousand rounds through it a with flash hider on, then observe the blast baffle for wear (you'll probably just see a light pattern where the tines line up) and decide if you need a brake at that point. If you're into melting barrels or firefights in the Kush, then yeah, a sacrificial brake will help remove some stress off the blast baffle. I'm never a fan of blanket statements, so I'm hope what I said was something like this: "The vast majority of customers will never see appreciable wear on their blast baffle whether they use a brake or a flash hider". The Stellite used in the Dead Air Sandman suppressors is crazy-resistant to abrasion. Some can's should never be run without one (anything Titanium that involves rapid fire). There might be some like the KAC, Q, or Griffin that might fit the bill, but the traditional two port brake might actually be worse for the long term life of a can than a flash suppressor.ĪAC Brakeout being fired (hybrid design):Īs a rule, a brake is always better for baffle life. Based on this, I think it's highly likely that myself and many others have been touting something factually inaccurate: the idea that brakes are better than a flash hider for suppressor use. After all, this is the strongest part of the can, and is meant to take the worst that a supported firearm can give. Further, it would seem to me that the tube of the suppressor in question would be taking the brunt of this blast where the gas is pusched to the sides, as opposed to the typically stronger baffles.Ĭonversely, it would seem that a flash suppressor would work as a sort of funnel to direct the gas forward and into the baffles where it is meant to be. After all, the very nature of these brakes suggest that gas is punched laterally, as anyone who has ever sat next to one of these nefarious creations at the range can attest. To me, this second set of brakes seems more apt to damage a suppressor than to actually help it. This line of thought seems to be opposed to something like a Surefire or AAC brake where there are simply two massive ports to deflect the blast to the sides. Other companies have followed suit, both Q and Griffin offer muzzle devices that seem like they would work as a first baffle in the same way that the KAC devices might. However, the MAMS is different than most brakes-as is the KAC Triple Tap-in that it contains a number of much smaller ports for gas to release. ![]() I'm pretty sure that the first time I read the claim that a muzzle brake was better for the long term use of a can was from Kevin Boland, then of KAC, who was speaking about their Multi Axis Muzzle Stability (MAMS). I have also read state that Dead Air feels that there is no difference whatsoever in using a flash hider or muzzle brake on one of their cans. For years I have heard that muzzle brakes can act as a sacrificial blast baffle/first baffle by lessening the impact of gas and reducing the potential damage done to the can. ![]()
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